Friday, 23 August 2013

In a Big Country - Felin Fach Griffin, Sunday Roast Review

It's not for nothing that the Felin Fach Griffin was awarded Inn of the Year by The Good Pub Guide, located in Mid Wales between Brecon and Builth Wells, in a gorgeous location it has become a destination for country pub lovers and locals. Pleasingly, for a pub that takes its food seriously, there is a good amount of space retained for the bar too, we were here for Sunday lunch on a beautiful sunny weekend and keen to test drive a lunch menu that had been commended in the Observer Food Monthly Awards 2011.

The menu reflects the setting and the pub's own kitchen garden. Each dish is described unpretentiously and still shows clear ambition in terms of flavour combinations and processes. I had no doubt that I would be well fed.

A starter of Potted Oak Roast Salmon with Parsley and Brown Toast was very prettily presented, light and creamy with a metallic twang from the vibrant parsley. The brown toast was slightly impractical, so thin and brittle that it disintegrated under the slightest pressure from the pâté but provided some welcome accompanying crunch.

The Mushroom and Tarragon Soup was a meal in itself, thick and creamy and the tarragon stood up well to the earthy mushroom.

The Roast Rib of Beef was served rare with a milder than usual, homemade horseradish sauce and accompanied by a smorgasbord of vegetables. Cabbage, carrot, broccoli, and a wedge of sweet butternut squash. If it wasn't for the fact that the roasties were crying out for some salt it would all have been spot on.


The other main of Slow Cooked Pork Shoulder with Apple, Roast Beetroot, Horseradish and Lentils was excellent, small cubes of potato added texture alongside the soft pork and lentils.

A pudding of Crème Brûlée with Shortbread was practically perfect, and the best dessert I have had in ages. Smooth creamy custard, a stunning crunchy brûlée and a very short buttery shortbread. It was such a shame that the vanilla seeds were all in the bottom of the bowl but with a dessert that good I'm finding it hard to care.


Can I also draw your attention to the rather fantastic range of sherries on offer and suggest that you arrive a little early for an aperitif? I tried the No 35, La Bota de Fino Macharnudo Alto, quite dark for a fino and complex. it would be fantastic with some salted nuts or a fish starter.




The Felinfach Griffin
Felin Fach, Brecon, LD3 0UB
01874 620111

Web: www.eatdrinksleep.ltd.uk
Twitter: @felinfachgriff

Felin Fach Griffin on Urbanspoon
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