Law and order, and specifically the role of prisons has hit the headlines recently. The UK has one of the highest prison populations in Western Europe and re-offending rates are high with half of all prisoners released re-offending within 12 months.
The Clink is a restaurant and charity whose aim is to reduce this figure by offering rehabilitation through apprenticeships in a working restaurant. Early indications from the first restaurant at HMP High Down have been encouraging with 25 prisoners graduating into full time employment and only 2 of those re-offending. So we have restaurant number 2 and it's come to HMP Cardiff. With some big names in support (Antonio Carluccio, Giorgio Locatelli and our very own Stephen Terry), and an ambitious menu , I was curious to see how well the concept worked as a real restaurant.
I was unsure what to expect on arrival, and received a funny look from a chap in the street who asked where I was looking for and I replied "the prison". Walking into HMP Cardiff for the first time might not necessarily stimulate the appetite, but the new venue in Cardiff has one significant advantage over the original for customers, and that is the security level. With High Down there is an 'approval' process for booking followed by a lengthy list of do's and don'ts and security to negotiate. The Cardiff restaurant however, is open to the public.
Stepping in is a slightly surreal experience, and once inside there are a few subtle reminders that this isn't your average eaterie. The 'no photography' rule, envelopes on the table for donations in place of tips, and the sheer volume of staff to name a few. However, the dining room décor is bright, modern and feels 'high end', and the front of house team are very welcoming and I was encouraged.
|The Clink Cardiff dining room - photo supplied by The Clink|
For the main we had the Breaded chicken balotine with confit leg, tomato croquette potato and braised lettuce served with a chive sauce (£11.25). There were components of this plate that were excellent, particularly the confit leg, deliciously savoury with sage, and perfectly seasoned. Also worthy of special praise was the chive sauce which provided a light contrast to the meat. The balotine, while well cooked and crisp was absolutely enormous and we both agreed that half the portion would have been plenty.
|Lobster and crab quenelles - photo supplied by The Clink|
|Trio of English Apples - photo supplied by The Clink|
It is clearly early days for The Clink but this is a hugely promising start with great cooking and real ambition, both for the project and for the apprentices. If The Clink can deliver on its social impact aims and offer its customers an enjoyable dining experience then we're onto a winner. I imagine that this would make a great venue for business lunches given it's proximity to the town. I'll be revisiting in January when they start a dinner service and am intrigued to see how the team will have developed their enterprise.
The Clink Restaurant, HMP Cardiff, Knox Road, Cardiff, CF24