Monday, 24 October 2011

The Hardwick, Abergavenny - review

When a friend suggested visiting The Hardwick for his birthday Sunday lunch my thoughts were mixed. The first time I visited The Hardwick I was less than completely impressed. The food was fine but the service was not. My overall impression was that the restaurant was far too busy being pleased with itself than it was concerned with providing customers a thoroughly pleasant dinner experience. I was however, absolutely prepared to accept that my experience may have been a ‘one off’ and that the restaurant deserved its write ups and awards in the national press including The Observer Food Monthly Awards, so I kept my misgivings to myself and back I went.

To start
We ordered bread with butter and olive oil. The bread and butter were good but the olive oil, which on first taste promised to be delicious, left a bitter, acrid after taste that was really unpleasant.
Now I would normally list all the starters but there were 6 of us so I can’t really do justice to each one but I will talk about 2:
  • Organic Salmon & Cod Fishcake with Crab Mayonnaise, Deep Fried Ortiz Anchovies and Lemon
  • Pan Fried Diver Caught Scallops & Crispy Breadcrumbed Gloucester Old Spot Pork Belly & Black Pudding with Apple & Mustard Sauce and Fennel & Dandelion Salad £5 Supplement
I had the scallops which were very very good, sweet and smooth but weirdly appeared to have been cut into rectangles to match the shape of the pork belly (?) This looked like slices of terrine and the black pudding was running through it like seams in a coal mine. The portion was huge! In all honesty I would have preferred the black pudding served separately – the seams running through the pork belly were very thin and so they were lost in the über savouriness of the pork. this publicly. Undo
He had the fishcake, which he said was good but could have done with being a little more crispy on the outside.

  • Roast Rib of Herefordshire Beef with Yorkshire Pudding, Roast Potatoes,
    Seasonal Local Organic Vegetables and Gravy
  • Deep Fried Cod in Beer Batter with Triple Cooked Chips, Lemon and Tartar Sauce

I had the beef and lovely and beautifully cooked it was too with the biggest best Yorkshire pudding I have seen in a long time. One of the children with us who ordered it had a huge grin on his face from the moment it appeared from the kitchen. Roast potatoes were good and cooked in goose fat (mmm…) so a real treat. The veg was a little disappointing, all boiled, with kale that had enough salt to sink a battleship.
He had the cod which was apparently very good indeed with a crispy, flavourful batter.
  • Vanilla Panna Cotta with Fresh Strawberries
I had the panna cotta which although nice and wobbly, seemed to me to be on the verge of splitting. It was also served straight from the fridge which was a shame as this dulled the vanilla. The shortbread biscuit though was as crunchy and buttery as shortbread should be.


This was the element of the meal that let The Hardwick down for me last time and I’m afraid the experience wasn’t much better this time. Despite having a small army of people there, trying to get hold of someone to take a drink order was hard work. We also had to ask several times for the bill (after a 25+ minute wait) despite being the last people there. When I have to explain what a double espresso is I also have to raise an eyebrow. I know you won’t all agree, but I would much more readily forgive the couple of minor issues with the food if the dining experience was a bit more friendly and competent. Having spoken to a few other people it seems that I am not the only one to think so.

Final thoughts

A good menu that should have an option to satisfy everyone. It was a real pleasure to be able to eat somewhere of that quality and see children being equally well catered for. However in my opinion the service lets the kitchen down.
Will I be back for a third time? Hmmm…

The Hardwick is a restaurant in Abergavenny, Monmouthshire. Stephen Terry is the head chef.  Hardwick on Urbanspoon

Friday, 21 October 2011

La Becasse - Masterclass

Those of you who read my earlier post reviewing dinner at La Becasse will already know that I was impressed with the quality and inventiveness of the food and service and happy to accept that with inventiveness will come some minor aspects of dishes that aren’t quite to everyone’s taste.

The morning after our dinner I was back at the restaurant at 9.30 for a masterclass on raspberries followed by lunch. The morning started with coffee and cake and a chat with chef Will Holland after which we were taken to the kitchen for the masterclass.

The class

I really wasn’t sure what to expect from the session but was thrilled that we were taken to the kitchen to find all the chefs who were prepping for the lunch service. It took huge willpower not to go for a wander round the kitchen shoving my fingers into the various sauces and prodding bits of equipment but I suppose I would have been politely shown the door so as it was I behaved myself and tried to pay attention.

We were provided with a clipboard and pen to take notes (the quantities were provided on email a couple of days later but the method wasn’t). The recipes were:

·         Raspberry vinegar

·         Raspberry and hazelnut dressing (including the vinegar)

·         Beetroot cooking liquor (used in the goats cheese starter)

·         Raspberry soufflé

Along the way we picked up some useful technique tips like how to properly butter a soufflé dish (twice, with a pastry brush, refrigerating between coats), emulsifying a salad dressing, the importance of good scales and how to whip egg whites.

Chef Will Holland was engaging, friendly and talkative, very happy to take questions (and we had plenty!) and passionate about his business. Masterclass groups are usually up to 10 people but for a variety of reasons there were 4 of us so we had more of his time and attention and could all see what was happening. Overall impressions of the kitchen were that it was calm (no MPW style histrionics here), professional and efficient, an impression that carried through to front of house.


At about 11.45 it was time for us to leave the chefs to their lunch service so we were shown back to the lounge for a glass of champagne and some nibbles and other guests started to arrive. At this point we had some time with Nico (?) the sommelier who was happy to share with us about his experiences of working at La Becasse. I took the opportunity to ask him to persuade Alan Murchison to make Cardiff the next destination for a fine dining restaurant (it was worth a shot!). I don’t intend on reviewing the whole of the lunch here but the standards that had been set the previous evening were on display again and we had the opportunity to try a few of the recipes we had seen in the kitchen.  The wine choices were bold and (for me anyway) educational, particularly the choice of a madeira to accompany the cheese course and a sweet red dessert wine to accompany the raspberry soufflé.

Final thoughts
At £99 per person I thought that the whole day was very very good value, not all restaurants could do this but the team made sure that we felt welcome. The culture that the they work in is the single most significant factor in enabling days like this to be a success.
When I finally left at about 3.30 I had already decided to sign up for another once next year’s schedule is published. Let me know if you fancy coming along!

La Becasse is a fine dining restaurant in the historic and picturesque Medieval market town of Ludlow with Chef Will Holland manning the stoves.

Monday, 17 October 2011

La Becasse - Review

For the last 3 years, a key part of my birthday celebration has been dinner at a Michelin starred restaurant. It is a good job then (having booked in August), that we visited La Becasse on the 4th of October, because on the 6th came the surprising news that the restaurant had not retained its Michelin star. I say surprising because we had a thoroughly enjoyable 2 days at the restaurant, both for dinner, and the following day for a masterclass in raspberries and a tasting lunch with wine (review on that to follow).

The restaurant is housed in a beautiful building which was formerly home to Hibiscus, with oak wood paneling and drunken floors, ceilings and walls which made for interesting people watching towards the end of the night after several glasses of wine! Before dinner we were shown upstairs to the bar/lounge area for champagne, nibbles of curried popcorn (nicer than it sounds!) olives and wasabi bites and a read through the menu.

To start

The amuse bouche was gorgeous and I could have had a bowlfull! Tiny squares of goats cheese, a lentil soup and a dash of harissa. Served with a trio of breads (lots of it!) and lovely salty butter.
  • Ragstone goat’s cheese mousse, beetroot, raspberries, liquorice jelly, pain d’épice and bramble vinaigrette
  • Cornish crab risotto, chervil jelly and fresh autumn truffle

I had the crab risotto which was delicious, fishy, meaty, creamy, and was presented in a bowl with a very wide convex lip that had truffle shavings all over it. A very good choice of plate because it meant that I got to taste the truffle properly, and separately to the other components (a first). The teeny tiny squares of jelly turned out to be a bit of a theme throughout the meal and these appeared several times in the savoury dishes. These worked well I thought and added tiny bursts of sweet or sour and had the bonus effect of clearing the palette a little.

He had the Goat's cheese with raspberries and beetroot, (which I learned all about and had myself the following day at the masterclass.) I thought it was lovely and a really interesting combination although I’m not sure the ratio of goatscheese to fruit was quite right. He wasn't so keen but he is a bit more  fussy particular and has never really enjoyed fruit with savoury. He also doesn't like beetroot much. Probably not a winner to start with then!
  • Mortimer Forest venison haunch, whimberry purée, parsnips with parmesan, lime and honey, bitter chocolate sauce
  • “Bryn Derw Farm” suckling pig tasting plate, confit potatoes, savoy cabbage, star-anise roasted plums
Suckling pig for me, which I have had once before in Rome. I may struggle to identify and remember each of the components but there seemed to be a piece of belly, loin, shoulder and an ear and a combination of roast, confit, and braise (?). The whole plate was sooo savoury that the star anise plums helped to cut through the richness of the meat and potato and since I often use fennel with pork, the star anise was a good alternative.

He had the Venison which was a bit of a stretch and having had venison and not loved it before, he was a bit concerned about the strength of flavour to the meat. He actually ended up enjoying the venison and might well order it again.

There was a ‘pre-dessert’ course of lime jelly, hickory smoked foam and something ginger based. This for me was the only really duff note of the meal. The jelly and ginger were good, sharp, refreshing and full of flavour. The smoked foam was far too reminiscent of smoked haddock and was really quite unpleasant.
  • Dark chocolate torte, salted caramel jelly, lime curd, local cherries, cobnut praline
  • Yoghurt panna cotta, whimberry poached pear,  caramelised clafoutis, crystalised almonds
His panna cotta was absolutely stunning. Full stop.

My desert was good but presented rather bizarrely in little piped blobs so rather than a clearly defined piece of chocolate torte with accompaniments, it was like a plateful of gooey iced gems and meant that after a few mouthfuls everything started mixing together. I probably would have preferred a more ‘traditional’ presentation if I’m honest.

Everything you would expect from a fine dining restaurant for sure. Star of the show for me was Nico (?) the sommelier who could do formal but was also engaging and had a very good sense of humour. The team that Chef Will Holland has recruited at La Becasse seem like a dedicated and close knit group who enjoy their work and it shows!

Overall some interesting flavour and texture combinations, good service and a decent if not overwhelming wine list. Recommended.

La Becasse is a fine dining restaurant in the historic and picturesque Medieval market town of Ludlow with Chef Will Holland manning the stoves.

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